The Art of Leatherworking: Heritage and Craft in Southern France

Before buying your first leather bag, it’s essential to understand the basics of leatherworking. This knowledge not only helps you avoid cheap imitations labeled as “genuine leather” but also allows you to appreciate the real value of true craftsmanship.

Why Leather Is a Timeless Material

Leather is a luxury material that gets better with age. It’s durable, aesthetic, comfortable, and robust. Two main factors determine its quality:

• The quality of the raw hide
• The level of craftsmanship applied during transformation

In southern France, Mazamet and Graulhet are iconic towns renowned for their leather heritage. Once the global capital of wool pulling (délainage), Mazamet laid the foundation for the region’s leather industry. Graulhet followed with expertise in vegetable tanning and leather goods manufacturing. Today, several local workshops are awarded the “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” (EPV) label, a French state distinction for exceptional craft skills.

The Three Essential Steps of Leatherworking

1. From Raw Hide to Leather

Leather begins as raw animal skin. It is carefully separated into layers:

• Full-grain leather: the top layer, most durable and luxurious
• Split leather: the lower layer, often corrected and less resistant
• Bonded leather: made from leather scraps mixed with glue—best avoided

Knowing these layers helps understand why two “genuine leather” bags can differ greatly in price and quality.

2. Tanning Process

Tanning prevents the hide from decomposing. There are two main types:

• Vegetable tanning uses natural plant extracts. It’s ecological and gives a firm, high-quality leather. Practiced in Graulhet.
• Chrome tanning: industrial, faster, often used for mass-market products.

Some purists even prefer untreated or undyed leather for its raw, natural look.

3. Cutting and Crafting

Leather is not sold by the meter like fabric. Artisans buy full hides and must cut around imperfections, using every usable piece carefully. This process requires skill, patience, and planning.

Each leather piece is hand-cut, sewn, dyed, and polished—steps that define true leather craftsmanship.

Why It Matters

Understanding how real leather is made helps consumers make better choices, support ethical production, and invest in long-lasting products. By choosing a bag or accessory crafted in Mazamet or Graulhet, you’re buying a piece of French heritage.

Discover our curated collection of fine leather goods made by EPV-certified artisans.